The salt air, the chilly breeze, the smell of the sea, the stench of the car park toilets, neoprene stuck to my skin. eager. nervous. hungry but can’t eat.
Wet sand, grasses blur, crab in the rock pool and then I can see it now, the mighty Sea. It looks so beautiful. Waves rise up and crash, and up again and crash, then there is calm, quite.
A patch of blue sky above and water the colour of mud below, but it is beautiful. I am so happy.
The crash of the waves on the shore and the rip roaring sound of laughter as I manage to get up on a wave. I am alive!
Photo taken by my surfing buddy Nina. iPhone and waterproof case. North Devon.
